What do you need to get great sculpted cheekbones?

1. The right brush
2. The right bronzer/contour shade
3. The right technique.

1.The Right Brush

This is not the time to grab your powder or regular blush brush. Why? They’re just too big in shape and size to do the trick. What to use?

A smaller, contoured, angled blush brush.

Like these:

Girlactik Beauty Angle Blush Brush

Sephora Brand Professionnel Angled Blush Brush #40

Sephora Brand Professionnel Platinum Blush Brush #49

See what all these have in common? A shorter bristle and an angled cut to the brush. This is what you need. Not sure if the one you have will work? Just place the brush back by your ear. Does it fit in that hollow part of your cheekbone perfectly or does it cover it? If it fits, perfect. Covers the whole area? Too big, keep looking. Here, it’s all about the size and shape of the bristles…

2. The right bronzer/contour shade

Next, is the right bronzer shade. Think soft, bronzy. Not chestnut brown. The new matte bronzers are perfect for this.

Amazing Cosmetics Sun Shine Sun Bronzer Sun Bronzer

CARGO Bronzer Medium – Matte

CARGO The Big Bronzer Medium

Trend? Keep the bronzer matte for this trend. No one shimmers on the side of the face.

3. The right technique.

Remember way back when? When contouring the heck out of your cheekbones was all the rage?

Let me refresh your memory.

Contouring was done way back in the 80′s to bring out the cheekbones on a photo shoot, that was blasted out with hard, flashing lights. Literally so much light that your bone structure was almost gone and you had to literally put it back in with highlights and contour. Thanks to the dramatic lighting of Francesco Scavullo, dramatic bone structure was all the rage. Which lead to many women walking around with dark stripes of shadow down the sides of their face in daylight.

In color:

I hate to burst your illusion, but in the color shot of Halle Berry? That’s not makeup making her cheekbones look amazing. That’s lighting…. This is the new generation. Contoured cheekbones are now an illusion, softly applied and just a HINT of something there….

How to?

My favorite way.

Forget the old ‘chipmunk’ way of applying contour. Remember? Suck in your cheeks, and apply from the ear to the nose, or just follow the line that you’re making as you suck in your cheeks. Why it doesn’t work? Your cheekbones are not near your mouth. They’re by the back of your ear.

THAT’s the shadow you want to create. And yes, contour should be on the sides of your face, not the front. If you see contour as you look head on in the mirror, well, you went to far forward and too far down the face. Sadly, contour should only show when you turn your head…. and remember, this is not a photo shoot, this is real life.

Take your bronzer, and start at your ear and follow under your cheekbone until you hit the outside of your eye.. that’s where you stop. Or smile, and stop right before you hit the apple of your cheek. That’s it.

Now make it modern. Take a cherry blush color and hit the apple of your cheek… make sure the bronzer and blush are near the same intensity of shade. No dark brown contour with a soft pink blush. The idea is to melt the two together.

But my new fav way to contour? It’s back to contouring and highlighting, but with my fav shimmer highlighting powders. You just did your contour. Now smile. (no blush here..) and hit the apple of your cheek. Best part? Light, whether it be sunlight or the flash of a camera makes your cheekbones look dewy, strong and illuminated.

Vincent Longo Day Play Duo Compact Highlighter Beauty Sin

Have you seen Jennifer Lopez lately?

Yep, she’s got that sheen going on. On purpose. Highlights the center of the face, brings out your cheekbones, and also your eyes.

See? That wasn’t so hard now was it…..

How to Contour Cheekbones, The New Way is a copyright post from: Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ] Unless otherwise specified, blog product reviews are based on a product sent by a representative of the company.

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Spring/Summer Makeup Trend #2: The Red Lip



Top Row: Betsey Johnson, Monique Lhuillier,
Bottom Row: Lacoste, Tuleh

It looks like the red lip is here to stay a while. Think classic, modern, fun, easy. Nope, this is not your super perfect matte red mouth from the 90’s. Now, it’s softer, sheerer, and just pick a red. Any red. From blue reds to cherry reds, to pinky reds.. they’re all IN.

The key is color, application, and upkeep. Yep. That red lip takes a lot of work to keep it up.

COLOR:

First off, avoid that red lip pencil first thing. You really don’t need it and you’ll avoid the dreaded red line around the mouth thing that’s going to eventually happen. Instead, get a soft light brown eye pencil. Even better? A soft beige eyebrow pencil. Just the color that would match the same tone of your natural lip line.. THAT’s the lip liner you want.

Then, the red color.
There are soo many.
Which one do you get? Color swatching is crucial here. Too blue? Too raspberry? Too coral? Color swatching will help you narrow down to the right color.

How to pick?
Key: If you have a color in your skin you don’t like, don’t match it in your lipstick.
Case in point:
Pinky skin? Avoid the raspberry red.
Blue under eye circles? Avoid the blue-red lipstick.
Have a ton of too much yellow in your skin? Avoid the coral red.
Have a lot of freckles? Avoid the brownie red.

See where I’m going with this?

Because a few hours later, it never fails, You’ll look tired, and wonder why. It’s not you. It’s your lipstick.

The best red is a soft sheer almost pure candy cane red… The sheerness of it cuts down the blue tones so it works for most skin tones….

Or do what I do: Grab a palette of reds and the ones that don’t work, use as ‘cream’ blush on your cheeks.

Make Up For Ever 5 Lipstick Palette – Cherry Red Harmony – No. 2 Cherry Red Harmony – No. 2

APPLICATION:

Now how to get that sheer red? Apply the red lipstick with your pinkie, and dab on your lip… don’t worry about the line yet. Just apply to get that china doll little lip going. Then press with kleenex over. Just soften it down. You can do a dusting of loose powder to set over if you want, but you really don’t need it… Next? Take a clear lip balm.. make sure it has noo color in it. Like:

Bliss Breath-Freshening Lip Balm Mint

or of course my all time fav Rosebud Salve (in the shiny clear, not the strawberry one, which can make colors look cloudy..)

Rosebud Perfume Co. Rosebud Salve .8 oz

Then just tap tap tap on top of your red lip stain. The goal is to go for a sheen, not a shine or a super shiny gloss. Nope, super glossy lips are out. Just the center of the lip, top and bottom. Think pretty sheen. There you go. The perfect spring/summer red lip.

Now remember that beige eye brow pencil I made you go out and get? Well, let’s just say it’s optional here. If you want a fresh, young mouth, then you’re done.

Want more of a polished, put together, going to a business meeting, hot date, kinda vibe? Then take your beige lip pencil and AFTER the lip balm is done, lightly apply and trace your red color and sheen up to your lip line. Almost like taking a water color brush and creating a line with your watercolor.. after it’s on. See? You’ve made a perfect lip line, no offending dark pencil involved and much easier to do and touch up. The beige color shouldn’t even be showing up. If it does, you got one that’s too dark for you.

LIPBRUSH:


BECCA Portable Lip Brush 20 Lip Brush

My fav trick? Get a portable lip brush that you can cap and throw in your purse. When you’re done applying your perfect red mouth, just take a few more swipes across the lip color and then cap your lip brush. Throw in your purse. Touch ups will be so much quicker and easier.

What’s the right lip brush? Well, don’t get a pointed one. It’s my biggest pet peeve in brush land.

LOLA Cosmetics Pointed Lip Brush

Why? It just doesn’t work. The point is too pointy, and it’s too hard to control. But it you have one, don’t throw it away. It’s perfect for cleaning up any little lipstick mistakes. Just take a touch of foundation and erase over your lipstick.. or redraw your lip line with this brush in foundation and you’ll get a perfect line….

What’s the right lip brush? Well, I don’t even USE a lip brush when I do shoots. Let’s just say it’s one of my secrets. (sshhh!) But try to find a lip brush that’s a bit more rounded on the edge.

Sephora Lip Brush

See? You’ll have a much easier time applying and getting a perfect line. Trust me.

TOUCH UPS:

Aww, here’s the part that’s tricky. Especially with the color red. Easy. Make sure you take along some kleenex with you in your purse. You’re going to need it. Need to touch up? Just press off whatever you may have left on the kleenex. Then do the tap tap tap on the red color, press, then the tap tap tap the lip sheen on top. Done. You should have enough of a stain left over that you don’t need to do any more. You’re done. See? Easy!

“

(Via Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ].)

Spring Makeup Trend: The Red Lip is a copyright post from: Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ] Unless otherwise specified, blog product reviews are based on a product sent by a representative of the company.

For Subscribers Only: Download your free copy of Elke's 100 Beauty Tips Ebook
Purchase Elke's The Makeup Course Ebook. $6.99

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Spring Makeup Trend #4: The Dark Eye


Shown: Malo

One of the major changes in eye makeup we’re seeing is a really strong eye.
Not smoky, not blended, but a strong, almost a hard eye. What’s needed?

A black eye pencil.


Delux Beauty Eye Pencil Nilla Black

Laura Mercier Eye Pencil Black Extreme

A black mascara


BECCA Water Proof Mascara Black


Benefit Cosmetics BADgal Lash Mascara


Global Goddess Exotic Eyes Lash Building Mascara Blackest Black

A modern way to do this look, is almost no color on the lips and cheeks, and just dark around the eyes. But I know, you’ll look at it and think, ‘I’m looking like death.’

You can make this look more wearable by picking a super nude rosy brown lip. Either gloss (*old school) or a matte or cream (*new school) lip. That’s it. Pretty.

Bourjois Effet 3D High Shine Lip Gloss Beige Elastic 1


Bourjois Voluminzing Lipstick Beige Rose 18

Trick? Do your makeup and do your lips first. If you feel polished, then you have enough and THEN do the black mascara/eye pencil. You’ll find yourself doing a more balanced job.

What’s even prettier and makes the look more wearable? Skip the blush and add a shimmering highlighter cream on the cheekbones.

Diane von Furstenberg Beauty Highlighting Eclipstick Moon


Smashbox Soft Lights Highlight

Either a cream or a powder is fine. But it will brighten up your face and bring a nice balance.

Okay, so you have your lips and highligher on. Now. The black eyes.

Take your black eye pencil. And lightly rim around the lashes, both top and bottom. The one thing most do wrong is that they apply a super thick line around the lashes and then run into trouble. It doesn’t blend, or it bleeds too much, it smears, etc.

Take it slow. Rim a thin line. Now take your eyeliner brush. Not the thin angle one. That’s for eyebrows. No, the little stiff, almost looks like a lip brush.

Fresh Wet/Dry Eyeliner Brush 15

Like this one. THAT’s what you use to blend your eye pencil. This brush keeps the line in place and just blends it out slightly. That’s what you need for this look. Now, after you’ve blended, take a light dusting of loose powder and now go over your whole face. Now, apply again, another line of eye pencil, and blend again. There you go. A super dark line around the eye that stays sharp. The light dusting of powder will do enough to set, but if you are going out, candlelight dinner, a long night, you may want to set it to make sure. Take your loose powder (NOT your black eye shadow… you’ll end up with black sprinkles all over your beautiful makeup job) and then brush over your pencil with the eye liner brush dipped lightly in loose powder. Make sure you shake off any excess before. That will do the trick. And if you can, don’t blow on the brush to take off excess. A very bad habit to get into and you can be blowing germs onto the brush which you are now brushing around your eye. Never, never never blow on your brushes.. Okay, I’m done pointing my finger at you….

Keep the eyelids clean. No shadow needed here.
Next, that black mascara. Now is the time to really play it up. Pile it on. My fav trick, take two of your fav mascaras and then do 1 or 2 coats of each. First one, then the other. Perfect mega lashes. Mascara not doing it for you? Take a touch of loose powder on your little finger and lightly tap onto your lashes. Make sure you don’t get any in your eyes. Then do another coat of mascara. Super duper thick lashes now….

The Dark Eye, the modern way. So chic no?

the dark eye, dark eye makeup, spring makeup trend, makeup application, the beauty newsletter, elke von freudenberg, mascara, blackeye pencil

“

(Via Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ].)

Spring Makeup Trend: The Dark Eye is a copyright post from: Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ] Unless otherwise specified, blog product reviews are based on a product sent by a representative of the company.

For Subscribers Only: Download your free copy of Elke's 100 Beauty Tips Ebook
Purchase Elke's The Makeup Course Ebook. $6.99

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Spring Makeup Trend #3: The Pink Lip


Shown: Diane Von Furstenberg, Nanette Lepore,
Bottom: Proenza Schouler

Okay, here’s a trend that really has me thinking, huh??? Because it’s already a sold out trend. And the problem with this? It’s such a hard color to wear. And very few people are going to be able to pull it off, no matter what they think.

Why? The color. Sooo unfriendly. First of all, you’ve got a pink that has a ton of yellow, gray and blue in it. All such skintone friendly colors aren’t they. What happens? This lipstick will make your under eye circles pop out like crazy and make your skin look tired in about 3 hours.

it’s all wrong.

And all people will look at when they look at you, are your lips. Not you. Not your beautiful makeup. No. Your lips. As in clown like. As in that’s all they’re going to remember. Can you tell I’m not a fan of this look at all?

So why am I even talking about it?

Well, maybe we can salvage this. Because I know looking like a Barbie Doll is sooo NOT how most of you want to look like.
Key: Avoid the yellow. The less yellow in this bluey pink you can find the better. Think more fuschia, not yellow pink.
Think sheer, and stained. Best part? You can easily build it up to get the depth you want.

Make Up For Ever 5 Lipstick Palette – Orchid Harmony – No. 8 Orchid Harmony – No. 8

My fav trick? Apply the cream blushes that you probably still have (like Stila’s Convertible Cream blushes) and use that to build up your lip color. There’s enough sheen in it to look modern (sheen is the thing for lips now, not blush…) and it’s easy to apply

Stila Convertible Color Fuchsia

When there’s this much color at stake, keep the pinky cheeks at home and go bronze or nothing at all. Keep eyes soft, or go more dramatic with a soft black around the lashes (make sure to blend so it’s a soft line, all around top and bottom..), keep the eye lids clear, and just add a fantastic mascara.

Bare Escentuals Double-Ended Black Mascara & Lash Builder Double Ended Macara/Lash Builder

You’ll have a modern Barbie Doll look, that finally looks like she’s ready for the year 2007.

the pink lip, spring makeup trend, the beauty newsletter, elke von freudenberg

“

(Via Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ].)

Spring Makeup Trend: The Pink LIp is a copyright post from: Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ] Unless otherwise specified, blog product reviews are based on a product sent by a representative of the company.

For Subscribers Only: Download your free copy of Elke's 100 Beauty Tips Ebook
Purchase Elke's The Makeup Course Ebook. $6.99

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PRO: Foundation

Face Atelier Foundation + Primer

My foundation holy grail. My god sent. My angel from above. You get the idea. After seeing what it did on my shoot for Harper’s Bazaar, in one close up shot, this stuff makes skin look like velvet. Like nothing I’ve ever seen before. I can literally see the difference, transforming right in front of my eyes, and this is on model’s skin, who most of the time is pretty dang perfect to begin with. This foundation makes me look soooo good. And the best part, it’s liquid. Not thick, not heavy. Just plain liquid foundation. Apply with a foundation brush and you can see it glide on the surface of the skin and stay there. An almost mask like effect, but with a sheen, a glow and with their beautiful shimmer liquids in gold or pink/pearl, you can customize the skin to look even more reflective. Seriously, if they ever stop making this foundation, I would sob hysterically and quit this business.

PERSONAL:

Bare Escentuals Bare Minerals

Well, it depends on what kind of a day I’m looking at. Elke’s overslept, gotta run to the market, run errands, or an early 5 am call time for a shoot? I throw on the bare minerals. Covers my uneven skin tone, makes me look rested, glowing and no worries of breaking out. Especially after a long day and I get home at 9-10 pm and all i want to do is fall into bed. (Yes, I know, sleeping with my makeup on….. sigh.) buff, buff, I’m done.

Maybelline Mousse Foundation

But if I have a meeting, interview, gotta look great day, then it’s Maybelline’s Mousse Foundation. So far the best covering foundation I’ve seen to cover my uneven skin tones and makes my skin look perfect with no feel. I just blend on with my fingers, or foundation brush, buff a bit, powder and set. I do have to be careful not to wear this every day, or the whiteheads will kick in, but this is for special occasions gotta look good mode. Love it.

Maybelline Dream Matte Mousse, foundation, Bare Escentuals, bare minerals, mineral makeup, Face Atelier,

“

(Via Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ].)

PRO vs. PERSONAL: Foundation is a copyright post from: Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ] Unless otherwise specified, blog product reviews are based on a product sent by a representative of the company.

For Subscribers Only: Download your free copy of Elke's 100 Beauty Tips Ebook
Purchase Elke's The Makeup Course Ebook. $6.99

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Spring Makeup from the Spring Collections. Oh that was sooo last year, but guess what. NOW is the time when we get to actually put to use all the new trends and colors that we saw from the shows. And I pulled the top 4 looks that I think will go over big (if they haven’t already).. along with my tips, tricks and ideas as to how to apply the look and make it your own.

So are you ready? Pens and notebooks? Coffee cup? it’s time for Pro Makeup Lesson for Spring!

Spring Trend #1: Matte Bronzer

Biggest change for this season? Bronzer.
I know, you’re thinking bronzer has sooo been done. But not now. Nope. It’s different this year.

How?

It’s placement and texture.

Bronzer is now Matte and applied very precisely on the face.
Remember on the runways? Below you have
shown left to right: Michael Kors, Bill Blass,

Above: Cia Maritima

All major players in the bronze game.

So how do you get this look?
First off: you need a perfect matte bronzer.

My fav:
Wet & Wild. Seriously.

Comes in
Light/Medium
Medium/Dark
Bali Bronze
Acapulco Glow
Tahitian Tan

Find a shade that’s the warmest looking without being too orange or too red. If you see a touch of yellow in your bronzer, you’ll have a much easier time to build up without looking like an orange if you did too much. Not sure how it will look on? Do the white paper test (color swatch on white paper, what color do you really see?) and that gives you a true reading of what type of bronze you’re getting.

Cargo, one of my FAVS, now also has a new matte shade.

CARGO Bronzer Medium – Matte

I also believe the Kimora bronzer is matte also..

Kimora Lee Simmons Beauty Bronzer Powder Kissable Cocoa

Guerlain is also known for their amazing matte bronze shades as well in their Terracotta Bronzing Powder.
The neutral bronze shade is suitable for all skin types and skin tones in 4 shades:
Terracotta 1 (soft bronze)
Terracotta 2 (radiant summer glow)
Terracotta 3 (rich warm bronze)
Terracotta 20 (soft matte suntan)

Now that you’ve found your bronzer shade, next you need the right brush. Yep, here, it’s all about the brush.. and most of the bronzer brushes that you see advertised don’t quite do it. They’ll work for something else, but not bronzer. What to avoid? Brushes that look like this:

BECCA Creme Blush/Bronzer Brush 34
why? this brush is too flat…. can actually make color streak on…..

Laura Mercier Bronzer Brush
Bristles here are too long… makes bronzer go everywhere you don’t want it to go.

Nars Bronzer Brush

This is more of a mineral makeup buffing brush. Can make your bronzer go on too thick, heavy and in clumps.
Also, depending on how wide the brush is, can also make bronzer go where you don’t want it.

Sephora Bronzer Brush

Now believe it or not, this brush above (Sephora Bronzer Brush) is the closest I’ve seen. The bristles are short enough for control, but they spray out so it’s a much softer application….. and it looks small enough to get your bronzer on in the right places.

Bare Escentuals Heavenly Brush below might also do the trick.

Bare Escentuals Heavenly Face Brush

The right size? Should be about the apple of your cheek when you smile. Just smile and place your brush there. Does it fit? That’s it. Oversize? It’s way to big and heavy. And you want the brush to be super soft, not thick or heavy. The softer the brush, the softer the application.

You can also find those great chinese goat hair brushes from the fine art store that will do the trick too.
Like this one:

Winston & Newton Goat Hair Wash Brushes
These short handled brushes are made from soft, white goat hair.

or this one:

SILVER BRUSH Series 5518S Round Mop Brush
Ultra soft white and black goat hair.

You just want to make sure the brush is soft, round in shape and fits your cheeks….

Next, Application:

Okay, now to the fun part. You’ve got your bronzer (check!), your brush (check!) and now play time.

You can do blush the old way. (Well, it’s not old, but let’s call it the quick way..)

Tap tap tap the brush onto the bronzer. Don’t rub it. Just tap. Then, tap tap tap onto your face. Where?
You’ll hit the cheeks (don’t forget to smile!) across your nose, across your chin and across your forehead…
That’s it. You’re done.

This look I think looks best with the beautiful shimmering bronzers (don’t worry, they’re not going anywhere and super easy to find. my fav? Cargo’s Medium Shade by far… )

The NEW way?

Take your MATTE bronzer.
Tap tap tap.
Then tap behind your cheekbone (don’t suck in your cheeks.. you’ll hit too far down) but more towards your ear.
Then tap in the temples.

Done.

Want more?
Ok, you can tap across your nose and across the top of your forehead.
The key is to look polished, and sculpted with this new bronzer appeal, not bahama mama.

Are you one of those that ALWAYS puts on too much? LIke always??? Here’s a trick.

Take your mineral foundation brush( don’t have one? Get one! it’s the best blending brush you’ll ever buy.)
But make sure you get the short stubby kabuki brush one…
LIke this one:

Bare Escentuals Full Coverage Kabuki Brush

TRICK OF THE TRADE:
If you’re a liquid foundation fan, apply all that first, foundation,concealer, powder. Then apply your bronzer as your first color. Before any other color . Do you look a bit fake-tanned? Don’t worry, now take that kabuki brush and buff. All over… and you’ll finally have that soft golden glow you were going for in the first place. Look good on it’s own? You got the right amount. NOW apply the rest of your makeup.

Or are you a bare minerals foundation fan? Do your powder bronzer on FIRST. Before any mineral makeup. And put on a touch more than you think you need. Hmmm, ok a bit more than that. NOW apply your mineral makeup.. buff buff buff. See? Perfect bronzer shade already buffed and glowing and you’re ready for the next step.

Easy now wasn’t it?

Now what?
For the new bronzed look, the overall matte bronze shades look best with coral and pinky lips. I like it the best when the lips are shiny as a nice change in texture to the matte bronze. Eyes can be matte or shimmering.. (though glitter, or major frosted is OUT!)…. think shimmer.. soft shimmering eyes. Go soft gold, bronze, warm brown.. Keep the focus on your bone structure.. then a glowing mouth and a soft eye. You’ll have the brand new bronze look down.

See? That wasn’t so bad…. you’re a newly bronzed goddess…

What’s next?
Spring Makeup Application #2: The Red Lip

bronzer, matte, spring makeup trend, summer makeup trend, the beauty newsletter, elke von freudenberg, makeup application

“

(Via Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ].)

Spring Makeup Trend: The New Bronze is a copyright post from: Elke Von Freudenberg [ Blog ] Unless otherwise specified, blog product reviews are based on a product sent by a representative of the company.

For Subscribers Only: Download your free copy of Elke's 100 Beauty Tips Ebook
Purchase Elke's The Makeup Course Ebook. $6.99

Elke's Brow Blog | Follow Elke on Twitter - Facebook

Technorati Tags: Beauty, cosmetics, Fashion, makeup

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  image: www.ss-studio.com/ Lilan from The Daily C...
• Fashion Week continues….
  So Sunday was a quick business meeting in the morn...
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