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Brow Grooming Product How To’s

March 3, 2010 in Brow Tips, Other News, Specials

BROW GROOMING
Do your brows look great without any product added? Do your brows look even in color through the brow? Then you can skip all the color products and go straight to grooming, or the easiest part of beautifying brows.

Much like how you would use products in your hair. Thicker, coarser hair needs strong gels and waxes to hold, while thin hair needs a lighter product to keep in place without weighing it down.

Two products that make your brows look even better are

DSCF0219 thumb Brow Grooming Product How TosProducts Show:
Brow Tamer (clear wax)
Brow Ware (Clear Brow Mascara)

1. Brow Gel
Brow Gel is the lighter of the two and meant for eyebrow hairs that are thin. In a mascara wand format, just brush on through brows in the direction you want the brows to go and then let dry. Best Brow Gels are ones that don’t turn gray after they have dried, and do not leave a crunchy, or stiff feel to the brows.

Application: For the brow gel, apply your brow colors (shadow or pencil) first, and then apply your brow gel after, to make the color water resistant.

2. Brow Wax

Brow Wax is for thicker, coarser, and wavy brow hairs. Since these hairs are usually harder to keep in place, you need a product with a stronger holding powder.

Application: To apply, use a clear wax that will not interfere with any colored brow shadow or pencil. Apply either with your finger tip, or my favorite, apply with a clean spoolie brush and brush through.

Tip: You can apply your brow wax either before or after your brow color, for different results. For a stronger color, apply brow wax first through the brow hairs, then apply your brow shadow with a straight or angle brow brush. You’ll notice that the brow color goes on a tad darker and with a sharper line since you mixing the brow color into the wax as you apply. For a softer look, apply your brow color first, then set with your brow wax on top to seal in the color.

Makeup Artist Trick: What I love to do is pick up the clear brow wax with my clean spoolie brush, then dip the brush into my brow shadow, and then brush through. Do this lightly and after a few tries, you’ll know exactly how much of each you need to get the right mix for you.

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Dare I wax my eyebrows?

January 11, 2010 in Uncategorized

Would it surprise you to know that I’ve never waxed anything on my person? Yep. I’m a licensed Esthetician, and trained in waxing, but I have never waxed a lip, eyebrow, or bikini in my life on myself. Call me a wimp, but after the near misses and failed attempts that happen as you’re learning in beauty school, (yes, we practiced on each other, and from what I remember, it was pretty painful), I’ve been a wimp ever since and have never even attempted.

So imagine my surprise when I got contacted by Parissa to try their new Face & Bikini Wax Strips.  Sure, I thought, thinking I’d try it on a few of my clients and see how it goes. But when I got these, the curiosity got the better of me. Because these were WAY different.

201001101639 Dare I wax my eyebrows?
What got me is that these are pre cut, clear cellophane strips with a perfect wax square in the middle.  You peel open the cellophane and you get 2 strips of perfectly placed wax to apply. So I took a deep breath and dived in. After a hot shower (yes, skin is easier to wax when it’s warm…), I cleanly lined up the strip above my brow, and pulled. While it did smart a bit, it felt more like tape being pulled, rather than wax.  But it waxed off perfectly. A perfect straight line was aligned on the top of my brow from arch to end. Again I used the same strip on the front half, above the brow from beginning and arch, and viola. Another perfect line. Now down side is that with normal waxing you can usually go several pulls until you need to use a new wax strip, but here, it only lasts for 2. So you go through these  pretty quick if you are using on clients. But for yourself, it’s perfect. Each container contains 16 strips, which mean 32 pulls, which comes to 4 strips needed to do a full eyebrow.

After I did the bottoms of the brow, (same technique, align up straight below the brow from beginning to arch, and then again from arch to end), I had perfectly waxed brows. 

My skin after felt ‘pulled’ and a little bit raw, but it went away after a few minutes, and a few swipes of witch hazel after calmed things down.  But I was loving my brows.

So whether you’re a eyebrow self wax pro, or a beginner, I highly recommend trying these. These clear wax strips make this pretty much fool proof. Now if only they had these in mega doses for us pros, I’d be in heaven.

Parissa

Herpes from an Eyebrow Wax?

November 5, 2009 in Other News

Eyebrowwaxmod

If you’ve been reading, the internet is all buzzing about the latest beauty news scare to hit the wires, with the possibility of getting herpes from an eyebrow wax.

Jeanine Camerlengo of Staten Island, N.Y., went to her local salon for an eyebrow waxing, and, according to her lawyer Bruce Egert, the attendant applied the wax with “a terribly infected stick,” that had been “used on somebody else in a rather delicate part of her body,” he told the New York Post.

Some of the wax dripped onto the corners of her eyes. Five days later an ophthalmologist found she was “suffering from herpetic keratoconjunctivitis in her eyes,” the Post reported.

Contracting herpes from a wax is unlikely, said Dr. Lynn McKinley-Grant, a dermatologist in Chevy Chase, Md., but it is possible. source

First of all, the fact that wax got in her eye is very hard to do unless done by someone that just doesn’t know what they’re doing (as in way too much is applied and applied in the wrong way.) 

But it raises the point of how waxing should be done and the proper techniques that should be used to insure that you are safe when getting a brow, or any other kind of wax service.

What to check for:

1. Does your esthetician wash her hands or use hand sanitizer to clean her hands between clients?

2. When applying the wax, is she dipping repeatedly into the jar of wax? If so, ask her to apply another way, or just leave. This is rule #1 in waxing,  as in never ‘”double-dip”.  One way is to always use and apply the wax outside of the main source. As in remove what you need to another small container, and work from there. That way a single stick can be used and then tossed when done since the main source is not touched, or use new wax sticks with each and every application of a wax strip.

3. A used stick is a no no. Do you see a used one on top of the wax pot? Ask for a new one to be used.

4. How clean is the area that you are in? Are all tools clean, covered? Is the station area neat and tidy? If you see a mess, it’s best to just leave.

Another case has been shown to spread herpes from the lip to the eye by waxing, as in this story:

One concerning practice, said Lewelling, is when someone has a “cold sore on the lip, they get a lip wax, the technician puts the stick back into the wax, then the wax is contaminated.”  The herpes virus could easily be transmitted to the next person or people to be treated using that same warmed wax.  source

Again, always be sure that a new waxing stick is used each and every time, and that you’re not seeing your esthetician dip into the wax pot over and over.  I personally pick up the wax I use with a metal spatula, transfer to a cup, and then apply from there with a wooden stick.  A different wax stick is used if doing both eyebrow and lip waxes, and then all are thrown away, and the metal spatula(s) are cleaned in soapy hot water and then sanitized for the next use. Or I’ll use a large wooden spatula to pick up the wax, and then use little wooden spatulas to apply to the skin with. When done, all get tossed.

All in all, be aware of your procedure and how it’s being done.  If you feel less than completely comfortable, you have every right to stop the service and look elsewhere. 

Things to look out for when threading.

September 17, 2009 in Uncategorized

200909170826 Things to look out for when threading.

Threading is all the rage right now and the newest way to get your eyebrows groomed and looking sharp, but like with anything, there are pros and cons. And the things I’m seeing with my clients are things that you should be aware of if you’re looking to get your brows in threaded.

1. Brows get thinner and thinner with every visit.
This is the most common complaint that I hear from clients that say that with every visit, their threader goes thinner and thinner even though it’s specifically expressed not to.  After awhile, you end up with way thinner brows, that needs to get on the growing track again, rather than great looking eyebrows every time.

2.  Brows get uneven and distorted.
While I see this with bad waxing jobs as well, when the brows get uneven, that’s when a major fix is needed. What’s uneven? When the two brows are looking completely different, as in one is curved, and the other one is straight, or one brow is higher on the face than the other.  This usually happens when your brows are being worked on from the side, rather than the technician working at you looking directly at the front of your face.

3. Skin around the brows get bright red.
I’ve seen this a few times, and it took awhile for me to figure it out. It’s not a burn, or from wax being too hot. It’s from the wrong type of thread being used, as in wool thread. Cotton or silk should be used, which has a slight slip to it and runs across the skin easier.  Skin can also get irritated from the constant friction of the thread if your skin is sensitive.

4. The ouch factor
Because so many hairs are being pulled, much like waxing, expect the ouch factor to happen. Some clients say it hurts like crazy, others say not at all. It depends on the sensitivity of your skin and also how tight the skin is being held down as it’s being threaded.  So while threading is gentler on skin because you’re not using hot wax, oils or products on your skin that can irritate, know that the ouch factor is very similar to getting your brows waxed.

5. Dips being taken out on the top of the brow.
While a over zealous wax job can take too much from below or end of the brows, a uncontrolled threading can take chunks of hair out of the top of the brow. This happens when someone cannot control the thread and it dips into the top line of the brow as they work, taking out hairs along the top of the eyebrow.  Hair in this part of the brow is easy to hide with brow shadow, but hard to grow in.

While threading is the rage, I much prefer the precision of tweezing. And since the majority of my work is on clients that are in desperate need of fixing and repairing bad brow jobs, tweezing lets me align and fix the brow by working one hair at a time to get the best brow shape in the fastest amount of time for them.  LIke I always say, if you’ve found someone good to do your brows, stick with them!

Before You Book: Tweeze or Wax?

October 14, 2008 in Brow Tips

Elke’s Tips on what you need to know before you book.


eyebrow graph Before You Book: Tweeze or Wax?

Here are some things to consider before booking an eyebrow appointment.

To tweeze or wax?

That depends on the type of hair you have for your brows. Thicker, coarser hair responds best to waxing because you are more likely to get the root, therefore slowing down hair growth. Though thicker hair will almost always grow back (sorry!), you’ll get results that lst longer with waxing.

Thinner, lighter hair likes tweezing because you can keep most of it’s shape without worrying about hairs not growing back. If you have thin hairs, be very careful with waxing along the eyebrow line. These hairs probably won’t grow back, since thin hair if finer and weaker, hairs usually don’t grow back. Ask any blonde that’s gotten her light blonde hairs waxed. And if it’s a bad wax job? You’ll be stuck with an eyebrow shape that may not grow back at all.

Always request that stray hairs between the brows and way below the brow to be waxed, while the hairs along the brow line are tweezed. That way you can play and change the shape when you want with eyebrow hairs that will grow back.

Elke

Eyebrow Specialist
Celebrity Makeup Artist
By Appointment Only NY – LA

The Model Eyebrow Service offers a precise eyebrow shaping every time with either wax or tweezing. Your choice. In fact, 98% of my clients perfer and request tweezing. After the service, your eyebrows and eyes are perfectly done to go either back to work, or a night on the town.

Aly knows eyebrows.

October 14, 2008 in In The Press

alytude Aly knows eyebrows.

Aly knows eyebrows.

How do we know? After a visit to see Elke to get her eyebrows glamorously ‘made over’, Aly wrote a super sweet review of the service for her “SheKnows.com” blog. Aly also got a super early sneak preview into Elke’s Brow Collection….

“Your eyebrows should be as fashionable as you are!”

Filed under Beauty

As everyone knows (or should), proper grooming is necessary for a hot spot, well, as hot as South Beach.

With that thought in mind, I knew today would be the perfect day to pay a visit.

Located just blocks away from my new place, I passed by it when I first moved into the neighborhood, and based on name alone, assumed it was a laundromat. (But who knows? My buds just played a gig at a place called The Soap Box Laundro Lounge in North Carolina…apparently there’s a trend in clean-naming!)

Slope Suds is not a laundromat, or a music venue, or anything related to the two – what they are is a cute, friendly, and unpretentious hair and beauty salon that is creating ever-increasing cyber-buzz about the excellent brow-shaping skills found within.

Since I have a brow fetish, this, above them being within walking distance of my place, was added enticement!

I must now say that any before-heard accolades were a gross understatement and Elke, the makeup and brow artist at Slope Suds, is so so so much more.

Elke Von Freudenberg is a celebrity makeup artist and brow specialist who is so popular that she travels back and forth between clients in LA and NY — and makes house calls! Her set up is a little something like that of a surgeon – instruments, wax, tweezers, trimmers, and a variety of pencils, powders, and tints – and, much like a serious diagnostician, she will intricately study your every facial feature before so much as lifting her tweezers.

Elke studied me, and agreed with my own diagnosis – I had nice brows (they were afterall, worked on by some pretty notable names of late!), but I suffered the ailment of having a “good” brow and a “bad” brow, and this problem was making my face entirely uneven! Couple that with hairs not growing back at the same rate, and a badly-needed tinting, and …oh my… I was certainly in no shape to be hopping on a plane to South Beach. (Alas.)

Help was, thank god, before me.

In the space of a half hour, Elke trimmed, tweezed, and neated. (Next time, we’ll do a bit of sugaring as well!). She even did a little exfoliation – turns out that the best way to prime the brows for tweezing (and the patient not to get red bumps) is to ready the skin in the same way you would for a good tan!

Makes sense to me, but I never thought of it before. Elke has lots of great visions when it comes to brows – in fact, she coined The Model Eyebrow, which encompasses tons of great theory and concepts she uses on her clients, including: The secret to model eyebrows, is to never completely wax your eyebrow. Models know that eyebrow looks come and go, and if you wax only, you lose the ability to grow in your eyebrows at a later date should you want to change your look. The best technique is to just wax the hairs that are not needed and tweeze to define the shape of the eyebrow.

So, we shaped, we created …we evened out my uneven arch…and then Elke completed the look by applying the perfect level of tint. She has a unique approach where she applies the tint for five seconds, removes it, and reapplies, until you reach your perfect shade…too something I should have looked into prior to previous disasters.

The results…South Beach perfection. And then I got my hair done as well! Shall share more on that tomorrow…I have a suitcase to pack!

I hearby declare Slope Suds my new favorite salon, ever, and see even less reason to venture into “the city” for, well, anything. (I mean it this time.)

Visit Elke now at the Janet Rufin Parlor
25 W. 19th Street
NY NY 10011
212 627 2243
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