The #1 question I get from my clients is how to apply brow makeup. And with all the brow products out there, it can be a bit intimidating. So let’s make it simple.
Brow makeup consists of colors that can enhance, darken or even out the color of your brows. Brow makeup comes in :
- Brow Shadow
- Brow Mascara
- Brow Pencils
Brow Shadow is the easiest to apply to create a softer brow.
Brow Pencils help darken sparse areas in the brow.
Brow Mascaras help to color and darken the actual hairs, great for gray hairs in the brow.
Color Swatches: From Elke’s Brow Collection
FINDING THE RIGHT COLOR
1. Find a brow color that’s 2/3 shades lighter than your brow/hair color. Matching it to your hair color will always look off. Why? You’re putting a color in a color that makes it look darker.
2. Not sure why the brow color you have doesn’t look right? It’s usually the undertone that’s in the brow color that’s showing up and giving an overcast color to your brows. The #1 undertone to avoid is Orange. How can you tell? Swipe your brow color onto a piece of white paper. You’ll be able to see exactly what undertone shows up.
Common undertones are:
- gray: seen in blonde brow colors
- red: seen in brown and dark brown brow colors
- black: seen in very dark brown brow colors
- green: seen in blonde brow colors
- orange: seen in brown and auburn brow colors
Try to find a brow shadow with the least amount of undertones in it, or a true, clear shade. You’ll have the least amount of problems with it.
HOW TO APPLY:
You’ll need 2 tools to get the best results with brow makeup application.
1. Brow Angle Brush (either straight or slanted)
2. Brow Spoolie Brush
The spoolie (or mascara wand) brush gives you an easy way to apply your brow shadow as well as blend it.
Take your spoolie brush and brush up your brush. This lets you see exactly the line that your brows does along the bottom of the brow.
With your brow shadow and angle brush, draw a straight line from the beginning of the brow, to the arch of the brow, going along the bottom of the brow.
Now with your same brush, but with no product added to the brush, brush the line that you just drew into into the brow, going upwards, from beginning to arch.
Now draw a new line, with shadow, in the middle of the brow from the arch to the end of the brow. Then blend outwards filling in the brow going along the line from arch to end.
Now take your spoolie brush, and brush through the brow. This is what blends and softens the color that you just drew, making it go from fake and harsh to soft and real looking. Make sure to brush up from beginning to arch and then sideways from arch to end. Keep the brush in the brow as you brush, otherwise you’ll be brushing the color into your skin along the forehead. Keep the color inside the brows.
shown below: Elke’s Clear Brow Ware Gel / Brow Tamer Pomade
Look good? Then your next step is to set your brows with either a brow wax (for thicker brows) or brow gel mascara (for thinner brows) to make your color water resistant.
Extra Optional Step:
If you need a little extra color in your brows, or after applying brow makeup, you can still see sparse areas through the shadow, then take your brow pencil, and apply after the brow shadow. You’ll find that you’ll have an easier time applying and it will look much more natural.